The Black Forest sounds like a haunting, spooky experience one takes on Halloween, where villains from fairytales lurk to lure innocent children from their parents. It invokes the scene of Snow White when the princess is fleeing through the forest and every tree is leering at her, branches trying to grab her. In reality, the Black Forest is a stunningly gorgeous stretch of forest that cuts through southwest Germany. The dense swath of evergreen trees run over the mountainous land and is filled with beautiful villages. Any trip to Germany should include a visit to this picturesque region.
If you are a fan of the Brothers Grimm fairytales, the Black Forest is a must-see excursion. Stepping into a village of the Black Forest is like stepping back to the time of Rapunzel or Hansel and Gretel or Little Red Riding Hood. When I visited Germany, I spent a week going from west to east, exploring different regions. I spent two days in the Black Forest, and it wasn’t nearly enough. I was only able to experience two towns here out of the many dotting the forest. I spent a night in Freiburg im Breisgau and a day in Triberg. I did return for a night in Triberg about half a year later because I fell in love with this town. This guide only gives you a tiny glimpse into the expanse of the Black Forest. There are many other places to see and each one offers unique experiences. Wherever you choose to visit, the Black Forest will be an unforgettable experience.
Freiburg im Breisgau is right at the edge of the Black Forest. It’s a university town so it’s a very busy and active town. It offers both the feel of the old village with the luxuries of modern city life. There is a lot of shopping here and even McDonald’s name is plastered on an old tower. It’s definitely a good option for those more comfortable in larger cities rather than more remote, smaller towns.
I stayed in the lovely Hotel Löwen just outside the city centre. Transportation in Freiburg was incredibly easy to navigate and took me where I needed to be, but for the most part, you can walk the city with ease. I really only needed the bus service to get to my hotel and the rest was walkable. There is a tram that runs through the city centre for a nice, picturesque journey.
I did have an embarrassing encounter with the transportation service on the morning I was departing and almost missed my only ride to the train station. I had the first train out that morning, so I had to leave incredibly early. The regular bus wasn’t running at that hour, but Google Maps said there would be a bus for me to catch. So, I waited, and a white van labeled TAXI suddenly pulled up and a man who spoke only in German beckoned me over. Now, we’ve all seen at least one true crime story so a man calling a young woman over to his white van should send off some major alarms. Luckily, a woman who could speak English told me this was the ‘bus’ service at this early hour and I eventually hopped inside. I’m still here to write this so clearly this was not a scheme to lure unsuspecting tourists. I write this to remind you to stay safe, but also, if you have an early train, maybe check with a local about transportation so you aren’t caught off guard.
But onto the city itself. Like I said, Freiburg is a busy town. There were a lot of people bustling about though it never felt crowded. I was able to move about without any problems and enjoy the city without the overwhelming feeling that crowded places usually have.
I find that the biggest intrigue of Freiburg is sightseeing. The entire city looked like it came from one of Grimm’s fairytales, with colorful pastels and intricately painted murals and text. There are the two medieval gates that have stood since the 13th century. They each have a gorgeous clock tower with vivid blues and plaques and murals commemorating the history of the town. If you angle your phone correctly, you’ll get a photo of the larger gate without the horrid McDonald’s on the archway next to it which breaks the illusion.
As you make your way through the city, visit the old Freiburg Minster which towers over the city and see the beautiful stained glass of the cathedral. Be sure to stop by the market at Münsterplatz and the historical Merchant’s Hall in the square. And if you need more information about the city, stop by the Old Town Hall at Rathäuser for the visitor center.
My favorite place in Freiburg was the Kanonenplatz, a lookout point right in the forest. It was easy to find and the hike wasn’t too arduous, but it is uphill so be prepared if you decide to make the trek. There is also a cable car in the mountain, Schlossbergbahn, and the tower, Aussichtsturm Schlossberg, for a more elevated view of the area. I personally didn’t get to experience either of these during my visit, but the views I did get were worth the small hike.
Freiburg only gives you a glimpse of a Black Forest village. It’s a beautiful city worthy of a day trip, but the real awe and beauty lies in Triberg.
Triberg is another tourist destination, but it doesn’t feel like one in the slightest. Even its main attraction didn’t feel crowded or overrun and I could just enjoy the quiet beauty of it all.
When you arrive in Triberg, you’ll notice three things. First is the sheer number of trees enveloping the mountains all around with tiny homes dotting the greenery. Second, you’ll notice all the ticking of cuckoo clocks. And third, you’ll hear the sound of water from wherever you are. These are what make Triberg so special.
Triberg is right in the middle of the Black Forest and the town is surrounded by the thick trees overtaking the region. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever seen before and is absolutely stunning. I wish I could move into one of those little houses perched on the mountainside. It looks like the perfect, quaint little retreat for writing a novel inspired by the fairytales that live here.
While you’re visiting the village, stop by The House of 1000 Clocks, a giant souvenir shop where you can take home authentic German handicraft. The most famous of which are the stunning cuckoo clocks. They are intricately crafted with beautiful detail and would make the perfect gift from the Black Forest. Due to luggage space and budget, I only walked away with a cuckoo clock pin. I did, however, get a souvenir that I will cherish forever.
Ever since I was little, I have collected nutcrackers. I love the little soldiers and have amassed a little ‘army’ of them who assemble every Christmas. So of course, when I found a whole shelf of handmade German nutcrackers, I wasn’t leaving without one. There are many other pieces of woodwork at The House of 1000 Clocks, so you’ll be sure to find a souvenir that fits your needs.
But the biggest attraction of Triberg is the waterfall. It’s one of the highest in Germany with seven drops and the water continues running alongside the road. You can find the waterfall by hiking a short way up through the forest and experience the awe of it. I can see why so many tales were born from here, as the beauty of this forest is unmatched. I could envision a princess living in a cottage with seven men, or a witch lurking in a homemade of sweets, or a wolf dressed in grandma’s clothes to trick an unsuspecting young girl. I could believe that magic lived in this land because it was just so alluring and inviting.
You can visit just about every part of the waterfall. There are two bridges crossing it, one lower and one upper that requires a bit of a climb. I made my way to the upper bridge and the view was breathtaking. I truly wish I could live here for extended periods just writing and sketching. If there’s only one place in Germany you can visit, I can’t recommend Triberg enough.
After visiting the waterfall, you can continue hiking along the forest and visit the Bergsee fishing pond and down the road from here, you can see the Maria in der Tanne church where a tailor placed a figure of Mary in a fir tree. It was believed the water from a nearby spring cured his leprosy and a girl’s eye disease and so the spot was considered sacred. The church was built later, and you can visit the spot today.
In the village, you can experience the history of the Black Forest at the Schwarzwaldmuseum. You can see things from old clothing to cuckoo clocks to street organs to mining tools.
When hunger hits, nothing beats schnitzel and Black Forest cake is an absolute must. When I visited in the summer, I ate at Schinkenstraße which is right at the edge of the entrance to the waterfall. If you sit outside, you can enjoy the sound of the water going by and look out at the forest. Hotel-Restaurant Pfaff sits across the street and is a popular dinner spot, though the prices are a bit steeper there.
My first visit was just a day trip, and it was easy to explore the town in the day. The train station offers locker rental for your luggage and there’s a bus, but the walk is easy enough. When I returned in the winter, I stayed at the Parkhotel Wehrle in the middle of the city. This was a lovely hotel and the room had an awesome view of the forest. Everyone was friendly and our stay included a little ‘meet and greet’ over a free glass of champagne.
With it being off-season, the price was very reasonable and well worth the stay. If you do go in winter, you’ll find some places closed, like Schinkenstraße, and the upper bridge of the waterfall, as well as a majority of the trail. You can still appreciate the village in winter, but summer definitely offers more.
I have only scratched the surface of the Black Forest. There are so many more villages to visit. There’s the spas of Baden-Baden and the UNESCO world heritage site of Kloster Maulbronn. Whichever one piques your interest, I highly recommend exploring the Black Forest at least once in your lifetime.
Be Bold 